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As Chinese New Year (CNY) approaches, we visited Chen’s Kitchen at Paragon, the casual sister concept to the two-Michelin-starred Shisen Hanten, to see how Chef Chen Kentaro and his culinary team is reimagining the festive table this year. Known for its “Chuka Ryori” style which combines bold Szechwan spices with refined Japanese techniques, the restaurant has launched a series of set menus available from now to 3 March that offer a refreshing departure from the usual CNY banquet fare.
We settled in to try the Blossom Set (S$328++ for 4 pax), which is designed to be a wallet-friendlier yet delicious way to celebrate out, together with two additional servings of their signature Mapo Tofu so we can try all three versions.
Naturally, our meal began with the Prosperity Yu Sheng. It was a vibrant platter that delivered all the requisite crunch and sweetness we look for to usher in prosperity, but it was the main courses where the kitchen really flexed its culinary muscles.
The CNY dishes present something different from the usual and delightful as Chen’s cuisine has Japanese influence to the Chinese dishes, making them feel lighter and more precise in flavour.
The absolute highlight of the meal had to be the tofu. We tried three flavours of their tofu, which all presented something very different in taste profile.
While the set menu features their signature Mapo Tofu (Red), we were lucky enough to sample the variety the kitchen is famous for. The Red version is legendary for a reason, delivering that signature Mala kick that is tingly and numbing yet beautifully balanced by the fermented bean paste and silky texture of the tofu. It is a tad spicy but does not blow out your palate, showcasing that Japanese finesse.
In contrast, the White Mapo Tofu was milder and more savoury, with a rich seafood and chicken broth base, while the green “Jade” version offered a unique earthy note from green Szechwan peppercorns.
Opinion was split around the table, with favourites varying according to individual palate preferences. That said, there was clear consensus that all three were equally well executed, each offering a distinct character. Whichever you choose, it is hard to go wrong, as every option brings something different and equally enjoyable to the table.
Moving back to the set exclusives, we started off with the Double-Boiled Lotus Root and Pork Rib Soup, a nourishing comfort dish. It tasted genuinely homely, with the clear broth capturing the natural sweetness of the lotus root.
Next, Chen’s version of the classic Kung Pao Chicken dish packs a different kick, with Japanese miso used for seasoning to present a different profile from the usual heavier flavours.
This is followed with the Mala Mayo Prawns which were plump and crisp, coated in a creamy sauce that carried just enough Szechwan heat to cut through the richness without being overwhelming.
These paired well with Chen’s Sweet and Sour Pork, a dish that felt elevated compared to standard tze char versions. The pork was tender and glazed in a dark, glossy vinegar sauce that had a deep, molasses-like sweetness rather than a sharp artificial tang.
To balance out the richer meats, the Szechwan French Beans with Mushrooms provided a satisfying crunch. The beans were blistered and savoury, complemented with the mushrooms.
Rounding off the savoury dishes was the Crispy Red Grouper with Sweet and Sour Sauce. The fish was fried to a light crisp on the outside while remaining moist within, complemented by a tangy sauce that struck a good balance between sweetness and acidity.
It added brightness to the overall meal and provided a satisfying communal centrepiece.
The meal was accompanied with fluffy Hokkaido Rice, which is stickier and glossier than standard Jasmine rice, making it the perfect vehicle for scooping up those addictive Mapo Tofu sauces.
For dessert, the Double-Boiled Pear was a thoughtful conclusion. Light, cooling, and soothing for the throat, it was the ideal way to end a meal rich in spices.
If you are looking for a reunion or CNY dining spot that balances quality with value, this set is a strong contender. The location in Paragon is convenient for families, and the pricing is very reasonable for the quality of ingredients and the Michelin pedigree behind the recipes.
For those planning ahead, they are offering a 20% discount for Citi Cardmembers (excluding specific dates) and an Early Bird Special of 15% off for reservations made by 31 January.
Chen’s Kitchen will be open on Day 1 and Day 2 of CNY. Their outlets at The Star Vista, Paragon, and PLQ Mall will remain open with no closures, serving the Lunar New Year set menus, and offering takeaway and delivery services as well.
Plus, every set menu comes with a free Fortune Cat Blind Box, adding a fun bit of luck to the celebration. Reservations can be made at chenskitchen.oddle.me. More details are available on the officila website.
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