[Review] Average Service in Jalan Besar Turns One with a Refreshed Menu That Elevates Everyday Cafe Food

When Average Service first launched in the increasingly gentrified Lavender and Jalan Besar neighborhood near where I stay a year ago, it rode on a healthy wave of hype. It was packed almost every morning whenever I walked past. Fast forward 12 months later, the hype has since settled into something more sustainable as the team celebrates their first anniversary with a refreshed all day menu to draw in new crowd and present something different for their regulars.

The team has also since expanded to takeover the whole building to set up the House of Average, with a call to attract a mix of operators and residents to anchor the house together with them. Interesting time ahead.

Back to the cafe-restaurant that started it all, the name Average Service is a playful misdirection.

Founder Jerls Su wanted to create an everyday cafe and diner, a space where people could feel comfortable without the pressure of pretension. In that regard, the space delivers exactly as intended. The interior is spacious with a retro chic charm, featuring bold blue seating and geometric furniture. There is a communal, almost co-working friendly vibe here, and the staff are genuinely welcoming. The service, despite the name, is actually good, attentive without being intrusive, which was a welcome surprise as we settled in for our dinner tasting.

As they step into their second year, the refreshed menu attempts to bridge their established daytime cafe culture with a more robust evening dining and cocktail experience.

We started off with two of their signature beverages. We tried the Kyoto Mont Blanc (S.50), which features a sparkling mix of a single ristretto, vanilla, and soda water, finished with a layer of matcha cold foam; and the the Dalgona Matcha Latte (S.50). Go for the latter, it comes topped with whipped dalgona foam, providing a luscious, velvety texture that goes well with the matcha concoction. The former presented a fizzy matcha-tasting drink which did not work for me, but would suit more adventurous palates.

Moving on to the food, we started with the savoury Miso Roasted Cabbage (S). This vegetable forward dish is elevated by a zesty XO sauce and a scattering of onion crisp, making it a surprisingly addictive starter. It does not look like a regular vegetable dish and will appeal to people who do not usually eat their greens with its interesting presentation and savoury notes.

Mains came next, starting with the Grilled Pork Jowl and Truffle Jus (S). The pork jowl is tender, served alongside a silky pomme purée and finished with a rich truffle to tie the whole plate together.

Next, seafood lovers will appreciate the Dirty Nori Capellini with Tiger Prawns (S). This cold pasta dish combines a creamy base with bonito, onion, and tiger prawns.

If you prefer rice, the new menu includes several premium bowls built on fluffy Japanese Koshihikari rice, perfect for lunch crowds.

We had the Beef Tenderloin with Truffle Jus Rice Bowl (S), which features beef tenderloin topped with a runny onsen egg.

Once the egg yolk is broken and mixed into the rice, the bowl becomes rich, savoury and comforting. There is nothing ground-breaking about this dish but it is one of the more substantial options on the menu and easily satisfying as a main.

To round up the meal, we had the Sourdough “Fries” with Trio Foam Dip (S), the epitome of hipster elevated cafe dish at Average Service that will be a hit with the social media generation.

This playful, fast food inspired dessert is incredibly creative. It pairs crisp, warm sourdough sticks with three distinct dips crafted in house by the bar team including matcha, strawberry, and maple sea salt foams. It is an interactive and fun way to wrap up the dinner.

Overall, the cooking here falls in the elevated cafe or hipster category. Portions are reasonable and the prices are fairly typical for Singapore’s cafe scene today. Service is noticeably better than the restaurant’s self deprecating name suggests.

With its refreshed menu and relaxed communal atmosphere, Average Service continues to carve out its place within the gentrified Jalan Besar neighbourhood. It may brand itself as “average”, but between the thoughtful menu and welcoming space, the experience is clearly aiming for something a little more meaningful than that.

Average Service

Address:
315 Jalan Besar, Singapore 208973

Opening Hours:
Daily, 9am to 10pm