[Review] From Beef Fat Candles to MS9+ Wagyu, Il Toro Makes Woodfire Dining a Show

There is something inherently theatrical about dining beside an open fire. At Il Toro Woodfire Grill along Gemmill Lane in the CBD, that theatre is not simply part of the decor. It is at the essence of the dining experience, with much of the menu prepared over woodfire and the open kitchen putting diners within sight of the flames.

The restaurant is helmed by Chef-owner, Drew Nocente, an Australian chef whose culinary background includes the former Salted & Hung (closed) as well as casual Italian eatery Cenzo. Il Toro takes inspiration from both Italian cooking traditions and Nocente’s Australian roots, with the restaurant’s name, which means “the bull” in Italian, also referencing a black bull associated with his family farm in Australia.

At Il Toro Woodfire Grill, Chef Drew puts his personality firmly into the food, with around 90% of the menu cooked over a roaring Australian ironbark wood fire. His cooking is best described as casual and Aussie-inspired, with robust flavours balanced by a more restrained and mindful approach than his earlier preference for saltier and more acidic flavours. Rather than focusing only on steaks, Nocente takes an equal-opportunity approach to the grill, working with seafood, vegetables, offal and meat to create dishes that reflect his individual style.

The meal began with one of Il Toro’s most talked about signatures, the Focaccia, Beef Fat Candle (S$10). It is exactly what the name suggests.

A candle made from beef fat burns beside the focaccia, gradually melting into a rich pool for dipping.

Beyond being a clever conversation starter, it actually works. The bread picks up the savoury richness of the rendered beef fat while retaining enough crispness on the outside to make each bite satisfying. Definitely memorable for us.

The Coffin Bay Oysters, Yuzu Kosho and Smoked Beef Fat (S$6 per piece) provide another bit of tableside theatre.

The oysters are torched at the open kitchen before being finished with the smoked beef fat and yuzu kosho. The result is a combination of briny freshness, gentle smokiness and a sharp citrusy heat from the condiment. The preparation adds visual appeal without overwhelming the natural character of the oysters.

The Foie Gras, Fig and Pistachio (S$8 per piece) is another rich starter, with the creamy foie gras balanced by the sweetness of fig and the nuttiness of pistachio.

It is an indulgent bite, but the supporting ingredients keep it from feeling one dimensional.

For something fresher, the Red Prawn Tartare with Confit Tomato and Burrata ($32) is a welcome change of pace.

The sweetness of the prawns comes through clearly, while the tomato and burrata add contrasting acidity and creaminess. The presentation is stunning with its vivid red colours.

The Caviar, Hamachi and Chickpea Chips (S$38) is another standout cold starter.

The delicate hamachi pairs nicely with the briny pop of caviar, while the crisp chickpea chips provide a satisfying textural contrast. We particularly enjoyed the combination of the cold, clean flavours of the hamachi with the crunch of the chips.

The two cold dishes also gives the menu a lighter counterpoint to some of Il Toro’s richer offerings. Rather than relying on the woodfire for every element, these two dishes demonstrates how the restaurant balances its flame-driven cooking with fresh, finely composed preparations.

The mains are where the restaurant’s woodfire identity becomes most apparent. The Blackmore Wagyu MS9+ Tri Tip 200g (S$88) is a limited and exclusive cut available at Il Toro.

The combination of high marbling and the beef’s naturally pronounced flavour makes it particularly suited to the restaurant’s cooking style. The woodfire contributes a layer of char and smokiness without masking the beef itself.

The MS9+ grading brings considerable richness, while the tri tip has enough character to prevent the steak from becoming simply an exercise in fat and tenderness.

The Turbot, Truffle, Vin Jaune Sauce and Turbot Tea (S$72) was another highlight for us.

Turbot is not usually the first fish that comes to mind when talking about woodfire grilling, which makes this preparation particularly interesting.

The fish has a beautifully cooked texture and a depth that comes from the grill, while the turbot tea adds a rich savoury kick. The combination with truffle and vin jaune gives the dish an added layer of complexity.

For the side, Baby Potatoes, Hot Honey and Ricotta (S$16) offer a comforting accompaniment to the mains.

The potatoes have enough crispness to hold up against the creamy ricotta, while the hot honey introduces a sweet and mildly spicy element.

Dessert brings the fire theme back into play with the Mint Slice al Fuoco (S$16), made with mint semifreddo, smoked chocolate ganache and meringue.

The contrast between cool mint, deep chocolate and the lighter meringue makes this an interesting way to finish the meal. The tableside finishing of the meringue with an open torch adds to the theatric and the resulting caramelised texture brings the meal to a rounded end.

Overall, Il Toro Woodfire Grill makes a strong case for woodfire cooking beyond the usual steakhouse formula. The fire is not merely there for visual effect. It contributes smoke, char and depth across everything from bread and seafood to wagyu and dessert.

The restaurant’s dark, intimate interiors and open kitchen also make it well suited to date nights, small gatherings and dinners where the cooking itself is part of the entertainment.

For us, the biggest highlights were the playful Beef Fat Candle, the theatrically prepared Coffin Bay Oysters, the limited Blackmore Wagyu MS9+ Tri Tip and especially the Turbot with its rich turbot tea. If you enjoy meat, seafood and bold flavours with a generous dose of smoke, Il Toro is a restaurant worth adding to your dining list.

Il Toro Woodfire Grill

Address:
18 Gemmill Lane, Singapore 069255

Opening Hours:
Monday to Saturday, 12pm to 2.30pm and 5.30pm to 10.30pm.
Closed Sundays

Contact:
+65 8259 1021

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