[Review] Unapologetically Inauthentic: How 美吉 𑁍 Maggie's Reinvents Classic Tze Char Flavours

美吉 𑁍 Maggie celebrates their first anniversary this year and they continue to offer a dining experience that feels unapologetically fresh while steeped in local nostalgia with their updated menu. Stepping into the space on Keong Saik Road reveals an ambiance that is cosy, radiating an old school retro charm where grandma chic crosses with 1970s glamour.

The establishment proudly wears the badge of being the least authentic Chinese restaurant in town, leaning into a joy of reinterpretation that takes familiar regional Chinese flavours and turns them into something bold and fun. The food here is an interesting take on Chinese style tze char with modern infusions and playful interpretations.

This irreverence extends beautifully to their drinks offering, detailed in a menu affectionately titled The Aunties Have Lived Second Edition. The cocktail and mocktail menu is witty and fun, featuring drinks named after stereotypical aunties with past lives, which makes it uniquely Singapore. We started our evening with the Puckered Pamela (S$14 virgin / S$22 spiked), a polished spritz crafted with Prosecco, pear, St Germain elderflower, and cinnamon, playfully described as having manners and perfume. Alongside it was the Pious Patsy (S$14 virgin / S$22 spiked), a tart and fizzy sour plum gin soda made with sour plum infused Roku, plum, and soda. It is virtuous enough to go spirit free for what the menu cheekily calls moral flexibility.

The starters were outstanding at Maggie’s, and I really enjoyed them.

The Stracciatella Chinois (S$23) features stracciatella, smoked olive oil, and a sweet and spicy black bean chili relish served alongside You Tiao.

The Golden Prawn Croque Madame (S$25) is another spectacular bite, featuring a tiger prawn mojo, green peppercorn, a sunny side up egg, ume sauce, and tobiko.

Both dishes are lovely and immediately remind diners of Chinese classic tze char favourites, specifically pairing You Tiao and fried prawn paste respectively, but executed with a whole new interpretation that feels fun and modern.

Continuing with the appetisers, the “Golden Gun” Cigars (S$18 for 2pcs) offer a refreshing bite of bigeye tuna, spring onion, creme fraiche, olive leaves, and tomato powder.

We also tried the X.O “Buffalo” Fritto (S$24), which presents crispy squid tentacles and whole sweet river shrimps coated in an X.O buffalo sauce, brightened by crispy mint and a lime crema.

Moving on to the heavier plates, the menu continues to surprise with its inventive pasta dishes and robust meats.

The signature Maggie’s Hae Mee (S$28) features fusilli lunghi bucati, red prawn crudo, grilled maitake mushrooms, dried shrimp, chilli crumble and kaffir lime, presenting an elevated version of a local hawker favourite with a fusion take.

However, the winner was us was the lamb. The Roasted XinJiang Lamb Ribs (S$45) showcase tender Gundagai lamb ribs served with a spiced jus and a fresh herb salad. The execution of the meat is impeccable, allowing the natural richness of the lamb to harmonise with the aromatic spices.

To conclude the meal, we indulged in Ahma’s Sticky Date Pudding (S$18), a comforting dessert elevated by a salted soy butterscotch, creme fraiche, and a hint of orange zest.

It is a fitting end to a meal that balances the comforts of Chinese tse char dishes with the finesse of a fusion-style culinary team, injecting modern, international characteristics. Overall, Maggie’s well captures the essence of a bygone era while delivering plates that are entirely suited for the contemporary palate. A wonderful experience.