Bangkok Day Trip: Things to do at Chantaboon Waterfront Community - Alvinology

Bangkok Day Trip: Things to do at Chantaboon Waterfront Community

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Chantaboon is an old town in Chanthaburi province in Thailand, located about a 4 hours drive from Bangkok. The town is rich in history, with recordings of inhabitants for over centuries.

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After spending a night at Rayong and exploring Chanthaburi, I settled down in Chantaboon to stay for the night and to explore the waterfront community.

In the past, this area was called Yaowarat or Chinatown of Chanthaburi, and enjoyed flourishing trade and businesses. The Chinese influence is still visible in Chantaboon, from the architectures to the many temples and the kind of food the locals enjoy.

Around 300 years ago, farmers and merchants started trading alongside the river at Chantaboon, which provided easy transport links. Later, Chinese and Vietnamese traders and refugees came to the area. The latter brought Catholicism into the area, with the building of a Catholic Church.

You need to cross a small bridge from the main town area to get to the church
You need to cross a small bridge from the main town area to get to the church
View of the river from the bridge
View of the river from the bridge

Many people are of the notion that Thailand is the only Southeast Asian nation which has never been colonized and hence their culture and heritage generally remained intact. Maybe the whole nation has never been fully colonized, but the French did occupied the Chantaboon and Chantaburi area in the early 20th century, resulting in some distinctive European-style buildings which are still standing today.

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The Chantaboon area, being a waterfront community, drew people from all corners in the past. Chinese, Vietnamese and the locals lived side by side in harmony and eventually, merged into the current setup.

With the help of a few old friends who grew up in Chantaboon and who wanted to preserve the rich culture and heritage, Chantaboon has since been delivered into a sustainable small tourist town. In fact, it reminds me of a smaller version of Georgetown in Penang, Malaysia, similar in the Chinese influence and the homely, small town feel, now infused with modern arts and hipster establishments.

What I really like Chantaboon is that it is small enough for tourists to wander around without a map and yet you will still be able to find all the main attractions, discovering other interesting sights and sounds along the way.

The 1km street at Chantaboon
The 1km street at Chantaboon
A seamstress at work
A seamstress at work
Someone's house
Someone’s house
Drugstore
Drugstore
Hipster store
Hipster store
Hipster art gallery
Hipster art gallery
Graffiti art
Graffiti art
Street eat
Street eat
Small chinese alter
Small chinese alter
A small Chinese temple
A small Chinese temple
Entrance
Entrance
Inside the temple
Inside the temple
Traditional snacks
Traditional snacks
Baker at work
Baker at work
Residential
Residential
Another residential
Another residential cum small provision shop
Can you spot the obscure mural?
Can you spot the obscure mural?
Retro salon
Retro salon
Handicraft shop
Handicraft shop
Stall selling offerings for the dead
Store selling offerings for the dead
Tailor shop
Tailor shop
Bakery
Bakery
Rocket ice cream
Rocket ice cream
Stall selling temple stuff
Store selling temple stuff
Another hipster cafe
Another hipster cafe

We stayed at the Baan Luang Rajamaitri Historic Inn (252 Sukhaphiban Rd., Wat Mai, Muang, Chanthaburi, +66 81 915 8815), which itself is an attraction. This is a tasteful renovation of the house of Luang Rajamaitri, the legendary icon of Chanthaburi who was known as the father of rubber plantations. He created prosperity by starting up the local rubber business here in the reign of King Rama V, over a century ago.

Baan Luang Rajamaitri Historic Inn
Baan Luang Rajamaitri Historic Inn
The entrance of the inn
The entrance of the inn
Reception
Reception
Just outside the inn
Just outside the inn
Hotel keys
Hotel keys
Showcase of old artefacts
Showcase of old artefacts
Stairway to upper fl oors
Stairway to upper floors
Corridor on second floor
Corridor on second floor
My room
My room
Looking out
Looking out
Wooden bathtub in the shower
Wooden bathtub in the shower
Back of the inn, facing the watefront
Back of the inn, facing the watefront
Outdoor area facing the waterfront
Outdoor area facing the waterfront
View of the river from the back of the inn
View of the river from the back of the inn

Chantaboon’s main town area stretches for only around 1 km, but there are enough interesting sights and things to do to fill a full day of leisurely touring.

Just by the inn lies Wat Bot Muang, accessible via a flight of stairs. The temple is a remnant of the Ayutthaya period in Thailand’s history, with the symbolic sharp, pointed pagodas.

Stairway up to Wat Bot Muang
Stairway up to Wat Bot Muang
Two thai-styled pagodas
Two thai-styled pagodas
Murals
Murals
Carving
Carving
The main temple
The main temple
There was a drizzle and a group of people were taking shelter
There was a drizzle and a group of people were taking shelter

Further down the road and hidden in an alley is Wat Khetna Boonyaram, a Chinese-style Buddhist temple. During my visit in Chantaboon, the devotees happened to be celebrating the last day of the month-long Vegetarian Festival in October and I was lucky to get to witness their celebrations and rituals.

Alley leading into Wat Khetna Boonyaram
Alley leading into Wat Khetna Boonyaram
Wat Khetna Boonyaram
Wat Khetna Boonyaram

There were many makeshift vegetarian food stalls set up just for the occasion and I even get to see a traditional handmade candy vendor working on his craft.

Lots of vegetarian food stalls
Lots of vegetarian food stalls
It was late, but the street was very alive near the temple
It was late, but the street was very alive near the temple
Another food stall
Another food stall
Candle boats
Candle boats
Devotees praying
Devotees praying
The carpark was full
The carpark was full
Handmade candies
Handmade candies
Beautiful aren't they?
Beautiful aren’t they?

As night falls, the devotees headed to the river to release little candle boats for good luck, much like the thai Loi Krathong festival. It was a beautiful sight.

Devotees releasing their candle boats into the river
Devotees releasing their candle boats into the river
Saying a prayer first
Saying a prayer first
Heading off releasing
Heading off releasing
Beautiful sight
Beautiful sight
Some people prefer to release live creatures and there were vendors selling them
Some people prefer to release live creatures and there were vendors selling them

Decked in all white scrubs, the devotees then lined the road after they release their boats, to catch glimpse of a temple procession. They then marched their way joyously to the temple with incenses in hands to make their offerings.

Police on patrol for crowd control
Police on patrol for crowd control
Waiting in the street
Waiting in the street
At the head of the procession
At the head of the procession
Kneeling down to pray
Kneeling down to pray
This is what they were kneeling to
This is what they were kneeling to
Heading to the temple
Heading to the temple
People everywhere
People everywhere
All decked in white
All decked in white
From just outside the inn where I was staying
From just outside the inn where I was staying

For dinner, I ate at Tamjun restuarant (248 Sukhapiban Road, Wat Mail, Chanthaburi District, Chanthaburi, 039-311-977, [email protected]), just next door to the inn we are staying at.

Tamjun restuarant
Tamjun restuarant
Vinyl record covers adorned the wall
Vinyl record covers adorned the wall
Restaurant bar
Restaurant bar

The restaurant serves a variety of traditional thai-style cuisine and features a live band and dining with a view by the waterfront. As we feasted on our food, we saw a few dragonboat teams practising their rowing, up and down the river as well as devotees releasing candle boats into the river.

Signature fried rice with bits of pork - really love this dish
Signature fried rice with bits of pork – really love this dish
Thai iced tea
Thai iced tea
Fried pork knuckle
Fried pork knuckle
Sliced pork
Sliced pork
Chicken wings
Chicken wings
Otak and curry
Otak and curry
Vegetable
Vegetable
Dinner is served
Dinner is served
Cake for dessert
Cake for dessert
Waterfront view
Waterfront view
Live band
Live band

I went to sleep right after dinner and witnessing the devotees releasing their candle boats. The feeling was rather surreal as I can still see the devotees flocking down to the temple from outside my window while I tucked myself in. It felt like I have wandered back into time, catching glimpses of rituals from centuries ago which are still in practice today.

The next day morning, I had breakfast at the inn which was provided as part of the stay. I had the traditional thai-chinese breakfast which consists of a bowl of congee, mini thai-chinese-style youtiao (Chinese fried doughnuts) and some appetizers. The inn also serve a western style option for breakfast, but I recommend going for the local one for something more special.

Thai-style breakfast
Thai-style breakfast
Western-style breakfast
Western-style breakfast

I spent the morning wandering around the small local market, to check out local eats.

At the market
At the market
Fish
Fish
Salted fish
Salted fish
Food stall
Food stall
Another food stall
Another food stall
Vegetable stall
Vegetable stall
Drinks stall
Drinks stall

This was followed by a visit to the Chantaboon Learning Centre, a small museum of sort which houses some historical items like old photos of Chantaboon and architectural maps. It is a good place to learn of the small town’s history and admission is free.

Chantaboon Learning Centre
Chantaboon Learning Centre
Photo area
Photo area
Backyard with a picture depicting how the area used to look like
Backyard with a picture depicting how the area used to look like
Photos of Chantaboon
Photos of Chantaboon
Old photos
Old photos
Architectural drawings
Architectural drawings
Old phones
Old phones
An old Chinese signboard
An old Chinese signboard
There is a second floor
There is a second floor

We then headed to the one must-visit sight in Chantaboon, the largest Catholic church in Thailand, the Cathedral of Immaculate Concepcion. The church was built over 300 years ago by Vietnamese Christians whom had escaped to Thailand to escape communists prosecution in their own homeland.

Cathedral of Immaculate Concepcion
Cathedral of Immaculate Concepcion

A large open area leads in to the entrance, giving one a sense of peace and tranquillity as you walk towards the church. It is the tallest structure in the area, adding an imposing feel.

A kid flying a kite by the church
A kid flying a kite by the church
More kids playing
More kids playing

Inside the church, the rooftop is shaped to look like an inverted ship, serving to remind the devotees of where and how they came to Chantaboon.

Inside the cathedral
Inside the cathedral
The front alter
The front alter
Inverted ship roof
Inverted ship roof
Statue of Mother Mary
Statue of Mother Mary
Stained glass windows
Stained glass windows
Doorway in
Doorway in
An angel statue
An angel statue
Tiled foor
Tiled foor

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One of the main attraction within the church is a stunning statue of the Immaculate Conception standing on the right side of the church altar. The statue’s veil is made from kilos of silver, gold and more than 20,000 karats of gems, magnifying Chanthaburi’s status as the of gems hub in Thailand.

Gem-filled statue of Immaculate Conception
Gem-filled statue of the Immaculate Conception
Close-up of her stepping on a gem serpent
Close-up of her stepping on a gem serpent
It's interesting to see thai-style flower garlands in a Catholic church
It’s interesting to see thai-style flower garlands in a Catholic church

If you are visiting during the weekend, get a taste of Chanthaburi’s famous gems and jewellery trade at the market on Srichan Road. Do drop by at the Chanthaburi Gems and Jewellery Centre, the largest of its kind in Asia. I missed the actions as I was in Chantaboon on two weekdays.

Nonetheless, for me, there were two key highlights for my trip to Chantaboon which I won’t trade for any other experiences. One was when a street vendor broke down into tears of gratitude when my thai friend bought some handmade thai sweets from her and asked her to keep the change. It was not a lot of money, but the old lady tried to stuff more sweets to my friend as she did not want to shortchange my friend. When my friend declined, she was moved to tears. This was a really touching moment, reflecting the simplicity of the people living in Chantaboon.

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The next moment was when we were invited into a magnificent full wood-style house by the friendly owner who just wanted to interact with strangers taking photos of the area around the church where he stays. The house was really beautiful and the owner allowed us to wander around freely as he share with us his personal story of how his ancestors came to Chantaboon.

We were invited into this house to take a look
We were invited into this house to take a look
Interior
Interior
Interior
Interior
Shapes
Shapes
Living room area
Living room area
Stairway
Stairway
View from the second floor window
View from the second floor window
An alter
Another alter

I will never forget Chantaboon. It is one of the more interesting travels I made in 2015. After visiting so many cosmopolitan cities around the world, they start to all look the same, touting the same branded goods and Michelin-starred restaurants. A visit to small historical towns like Chantaboon in Chanthaburi and Prasae in Rayong is a fresh change, allowing me to take a walk back in time.

Getting there

By Car: Chanthaburi is 245km from Bangkok. To get there, take Highway No. 34 (Bang Na-Trat) or Motorway to Chon Buri, then use Highway No. 344 (Ban Bung-Klaeng) and proceed to Chanthaburi along Highway No. 3.

By Bus: Air-conditioned buses leave the Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekkamai) to Chanthaburi every hour from 4 a.m.-midnight.  There are also minibuses depart hourly from Bangkok’s Victory Monument.

1 comment

  1. I visited Chantabari recently and I could so relate to your blogpost. One must stroll around and literally spend quality time at Chantaboon Waterfront Community. It is such a cute and happy place.

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